Repair Stand Thoughts… The Do’s and Don’t

I just thought I would post my final thoughts about the stand after using it a couple of times.

Likes: Homemade (DIY), sense of accomplishment, sturdy, easy to use, works well for the money!, CHEAP!

Dislikes: Clamping the bike is difficult at times (getting everything positioned sometime requires 2 hands), still twists a bit (but what bike stand doesn’t), wood does swivel at times

Thoughts:

-The bike stand is great for what I am looking to do (basic mechanics and repairs). As I get more into the mechanical work, I might have to upgrade but for now and most likely a while, this stand is great!

-For what ever reason, I am really getting a good sense of accomplishment out of this project. I could be because repair stand start a close to $100 and I made my whole thing for $35 all said and done. Maybe it is just that I liked the project more than anything, I am not really sure.

-The bike does wiggle a little bit in the stand but maybe some thicker (or another layer) of old bike tube could take care of that.

-The wood swiveling is sometimes annoying but in order to combat that, I drilled the holes closer in the second set of blocks I made (sorry I forgot to mention that in my second grip posting). This really is not anything major. I can easily find ways to work around it for 35 bucks!

Overall: Great stand for the money. If you are looking to do some basic to intermediate repairs and maintenance, this is an awesome stand for you! If you are looking to start a repair shop, might as well invest in a Parks Tool Co. stand…

Bike Stand Part II – The GRIP!

So after some thinking and input from some people, I finally figured out a solution on the clamp on my bike stand. As you recall from previous posts, I was struggling to find a way to clamp the bikes into the stand and not have them twist and turn while clamped. In order to do this, I came up with the idea of taking an old bike tube and cutting it into sizable chunks then laying it over the wood blocks that I cut out for holding the seat posts.

I went to my local bike shop and they gave me a weird look when I asked for some old mountain bike tubes but after explaining what I was doing, the guy was really interested and asked me how I made it. I think he might make one, thats how pumped he was to hear about it.

Anyways, When I got back to the house, I found out that it was not going to be as easy as planned. Long story short, after fitting and trying to size it up multiple times, the old blocks just were not going to work. I made new block and then cut the tubes to size and made relief slits on top so the rubber would fold flat against the wood.

and the test…. YES! It works! I can now crank on the bike if need be (crank pulling (no pun intended), bottom bracket removal, etc).

I forgot to take a pic of the wood block so I will do those once I get the chance and just add it onto this post.

DIY Project 1= check!

Fuji Full Suspension FrameFrame

So I went into my Local Bike Store (LBS) that just opened and was looking around and they were selling a full suspension bike frame for cheap. I looked into it more and decided that I should go ahead and buy it. I figured since I bought a hardtail (’06 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Frame) frame to do a swap, I might as well just get a full suspension frame and not swap onto the hardtail frame. It is a 2005 Fuji Adventure Hi Full Suspension mountain bike frame (21″). So here we go… I am just about to start swapping parts (posts to come!)

 

DIY Bike Stand Tray

So as I was looking at the bike stands online, I came up with another idea… A bike repair stand tray

 

Mechanics use trays to hold tools, parts, coffee, anything they need really.

 

Here is how I made mine…

 

Tools List:

-Hammer

-Finishing nails or regular nails (depends on the look you want)

-Saw to cut wood

 

Parts List:

-Piece of plywood (size depends on how big you would like the tray, I found a scrap piece I had kicking around that is about 18″ long and 9″ wide)

-Wood for edges (size depends on how deep you want the tray, I found scrap again and that was 1″x2″ high)

-1″ U-pole clamp (hint: found in the electrical section of Home Depot)

 

I cut the plywood down to size that I wanted. I then drilled a 1″ hole about 1″ in from the back and in the centered the hole. Once I drilled that, I tested it for size on the 60″ rigid pipe. Hint: if it is too big, put duct tape around the pole and slide the tray over that! Once you see that it fits, Pull it off and cut the edge pieces to proper length. Nail into side of plywood. Place the U-clamp in position of how high you want the tray to sit. Tighten the U-clamp and slide tray over the top so it sits on the U-clamp. And… DONE! Quick and simple yet very useful (and it save the back!).

Top view: notice how I used duct tape to help shim around the hole of the tray

U-Clamp (found in electrical section of Home Depot) which the tray just sits on

Another view of the tray top and edges

 

Remember to post pics of YOURS!!

DIY Bike Repair Stand Thoughts

I was just thinking of ways to improve this stand. With the towel wrapped around the seat post, the bike can twist (not ideal). I tried using some foam pipe insulation that I had laying around but that didn’t do much…

 

I am trying to find some sort of rubber (maybe a old bike tube) that I could use that is not smooth and would “catch” the seat post. I am thinking I might just have to go riding more to get a new tube or take a visit to the LBS to see if they have any laying around.

 

Any ideas about what I could use?

DIY Bike Stand

Its been a while… life got in the way (go figure right?) Anyways….

Here is a DIY Bike Stand for you. Since I have recently got into bike repair, I was in need of a bike repair stand. Looking them up online and they can be rather pricey! So I figured I would pull out the weekend warrior and build one myself.

 

 

Tools Needed:

-Drill and drill bits

-Wrenches

-Pipe Wrench

 

 

Parts List from local Home Depot or Menards:

-1″ rigid threaded pipe (60″ long)

-1″ to 3/4″ 90 degree elbow reducer

-3/4″ rigid threaded pipe (18″ long)

-1″ flange

-3/4″ Pony Clamp

-2′ x 2′ plywood (scrap bin if your lucky!)

-2″ x 4″ piece wood (12″ long is all that is needed for the clamp brace)

-1/2″ carriage bolts (or which ever size fits in your flange) – 4 bolts

-1/2″ fender washers (or which ever size fits in your flange) -8 washers

-1/2″ nuts (non locking) (or which ever size fits in your flange)  – 4 nuts

 

 

Once I collected all the materials, I started with the base. Taking the flange and marking holes where I wanted to drill in the plywood for the carriage bolts to go through. Hint: you want them mainly in one corner to counter balance the weight of the bike but not completely in the corner as you will crack the plywood. Before drilling the holes you need to get rid of the wobble that the bolts would create on the bottom. In order to do that, you will have to drill some bigger holes to counter-sink the bolts.Drill the counter-sink holes big enough so the fender washer can fit inside. Drill the counter-sink holes first then drill through with the regular drill bits.

Counter-Sink holes with Fender washers and carriage bolts

Once the carriage bolts can go through, tighten down. Hint: tight but not too tight, too tight will again make the plywood crack

Use washer then tighten down but not too tight (plywood will crack)

The base is finished! Good work. Next up, screw in the 60″ long threaded rigid pipe into the flange and tighten with a pipe wrench or as tight as you can get it.

Next, screw in the 90 degree reducer. This you might need a pipe wrench for in order to get the elbow at the right angle (pardon the pun). Screw in the 3/4″ sized 18″ long threaded pipe into the other end of the elbow. Again pipe wrench would be good but not 100% necessary.

90 Degree 1" to 3/4" Elbow Reducer

Now comes the tricky part! Put the 3/4″ pony clamp on to test for fitting. It should fit well. In order to get the bike to stay, you will need to create a clamping device for a seat post. Take your bike seat post and test it for size. Cut the 2×4 into 2 equally long pieces about ~6″ long. Clamp the two pieces together and drill a 3/4″ hole closer to one end (about 1 1/2″ away from end). This hole will be to slide onto the 3/4″ pipe. It is important that this piece fits almost tightly around the 3/4″ pipe. Once that is fitted well, clamp the pieces back together. Now find a bit that is slightly larger than your seat post. Drill this hole perpendicular to the first hole (see picture). Once this is drilled check for proper fitting for your seat post. Hint: you might have to get something to fill in order to make it fill the hole. Slide onto 3/4″ pipe and put the other end of the pony clamp on. This part was a bit difficult. Trial and error to find just the right angle for the pony clamp.

Wood Piece Close Up! Be carefully not to drill the holes too big when making this piece

Pony clamp now attached with the wood pieces on

Pony Clamp In Action! I used a towel (temporary) to fill in my gaps on the wood piece

DONE!!!

Grease up those chains, put in a fresh bottom bracket, and put that chain whip to use now!

Time to put a project together...

Feel free to comment on how this could be better. I am always open to new ideas and please POST YOUR PICS!

The start…

I am just about to start on a bunch of projects…

-Homemade bike repair stand

-swapping frames from an ’10 to ’06 Rockhopper (’10 frame is too big for me, I found out)

-Finishing my Fixie

-Making a beer bottle cap table

-DIY fairing for a roof rack (proving to be quite a bit of thinking going into planning for this one)

I will be slowly but surely knocking them off the list…. so stay tuned